my ltds, post your family
my ltds, post your family
these are all LTDs
top row left to right
mid 90's MII deluxe trans red, mid 90's MIII trans blue, kh 502, mid 90's mii trans red, ec256 cherry burst, ec256 vintage black, mid 90's ec200 trans blue, viper deluxe, mid 90's h200 trans red, mid 90's h200 trans blue,
second row, mid 90's the mirage trans green, early version exp, alex wade 7,
third row, vintage 204 bass, te 202
fourth row, ec jr (my daugther's guitar), viper jr
#1 mid 90's ltd mii deluxe - transparent red ash - top left - stock esp pickups - far top left
#2 vintage black ltd ec 256 - seymour duncan jb in the neck, seymour duncan sh5 in the bridge - top row 6th from left
#3 mid 90's ltd the mirage - transparent green ash - stock esp pickups- 2nd row far left
I buy a lot of guitars, I find a lot of used guitars that are way underpriced because someone has them incorrectly set up and they play badly or not at all,
I buy them fix them up and either decide to keep them or resell, I also buy new guitars that are on clearance or have been discounted because of a nick or scratch. I
have a hard time selling any ESP's and LTD's and they just started accumulating. Didn't realize there were 17 there until you mentioned it. I think I have an addiciton.
I need to thin the collection a bit to make the wife happy, I love the exp but it not getting as much playtime as it should, so I will consider it.
Its from the early run, with no ltd block logo in the neck, has the dots instead, has serial number pressed into the fretboard. I am told these were made in Japan.
Its a bolt on neck, it has esp brand passives that look like EMGS. Its got a fair share of chips and scratches, nothing that affects playability.
I would love to see it go to someone who is an esp/ltd person. I sent a friend request. If you accept then you can message me to discuss it.
there used to be an section about the explorers but I can't seem to find it now that the boards have been "improved"
Well, I decided to use OFR posts/studs/inserts instead of the Gotoh ones because the Gotoh studs are bigger in diameter and I didn't want to drill bigger holes to the body.
Other thing was that the lock screws that screw in to the saddles are quite long... too long for the recess when the trem is intonated correctly so when doing pullups or flutters the screws hit the top of the body. I use semi-thick strings (11-56 in C std).
So, again I wanted to avoid doing any woodwork (no toolz, no skillz) and found out that the OFR screws are shorter but the threading is same.
Here's the guitar not intonated with the original screws and the other pic is with the OFR screws and with proper intonation:
Sorry about the bad angle in 2nd pic but there's just enough room for mad whammy action with the OFR screws. The Schaller screws are even shorter but also thicker so they won't fit through the gaps in the baseplate. Threading is the same though.
That's about it, so quite easy fit in the end IMO
p.s being a lot cheaper than OFRs and Schallers, I think the Gotoh is also a little better made. All the parts fit together real snug and it feels more solid.
I have a gotoh that was stock on one of my guitars. I like it better than ofr and shaller also. I agree about them being better made. The m's are bolt on necks so a proper neck shim will change the neck angle enough so I could have low action and full trem mobility. I dont really like cutting holes in my guitars either.
nice collection! I myself, after having only recently switched to ESP/LTD only have 1 to speak of, that being my LTD MP-600. I was in love with it the moment i got it out of the case. I've not done anything to it so just google it if you want a picture since my camera is on the fritz at the moment. it's the DC'd model with the inlay but not the graphic on the body.
which are your favorite 3? I onlly have an ltd 401 in white (wanted it in black) but someday i will have 17 guitars. :D