• Deadpulse

    Good wireless with pedal reciever?

    With the way my rig works, I really want a wireless system with a pedal receiver so I can run my TU-2 through the front of my amp without having to run a shit load of cables back and forth from the amp.

    I have the Samson Airline system and I absolutely hate it. It's consistently clipping unless I hit the -15db switch but then it sucks so much tone to a point where I don't even wanna use it. Also, unless I'm muting everything with the TU-2 I get a crazy popping noise when I turn the volume knob down.

    Anyone know of a good wireless system that doesn't fuck around with a pedal receiver?

    • Kride

      I get a crazy popping noise when I turn the volume knob down.

      From your guitar? You have a scratchy volume pot. Change it.

      Can't help with the wireless question tho :|

    • Deadpulse

      No it's not the pots. I can turn the volume up/down without any scratchy-ness. It's when I turn the volume down on my guitar to talk to someone, then very speratically it will just make a huge popping noise.

      Thanks for the X2 recommendation, but I'm looking for a pedal style receiver so I can put it right beside my TU-2, and then run a cable from there to the front of my amp, rather than go from my rack wireless, then to my TU-2 and back.

    • chevy Z 302

      it is a pedal reciever, he posted the rack version;)

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    • Deadpulse

      k so after doing a bit of reading, it looks pretty badass. But then again, so did the Samson Airline system and it turned out to be garbage.

      Is this thing actually on par with a decent Shure product or should I just save up and get a PGX unit a Sennheiser system? I don't mind paying a bit for a good one, but it's got to be worth it and not suck so much tone that I have to re-EQ my amp for a "wireless setting"

    • andrei

      hello everybody,

      i'll just start shooting right away.

      i know that:
      the cabinet(s) should have the same impedance as the amp.
      if the impedance of the cabs is greater, it is still safe, but there will be a decrease in volume;
      if the impedance of the cabs is less, there will be an increase of volume and the amp will overheat.

      Q1: for an amp that provides 75 W at 4 Ohm, how "big" will be the volume loss if i use a 150 W at 8 Ohm cabinet, instead of one at 4 Ohm?

      (i'm getting a spider3 hd75 and am planning to build a 2x12 for it - haven't decided if it's gonna be 150w/8 ohm or 150w/4ohm)

      (let's not get stuck on why i don't buy a better amp... it's gonna be the spider and a home made 2x12)

      2. what does "speaker outs - class 2 wiring" mean, is it "paralell wiring"?

      if an amp with output at 4ohm, is connected to a cab, also at 4ohm and either the speaker or the amp have paralel outs, then, if another speaker / mixer / amp is connected to one of the paralell outs (using the amp to power the monitor and also as a direct out), then the overall resistance will decrease (below the recomanded 4ohm).

      Q3: how risky is that?

      (that is why i think about if my cab should rather be at 8 ohm (and worry about the volume decrease, cose 75w isn't that much) and also hope that "calss 2 wiring" means "paralell wiring")

      4. can a rewerb spring be (simply) removed from an amp, if i'm not planning to use rewerb / can it be replaced withe another resistor (what value)?

      thanks for the patience to read it all and i hope someone may bring some light into this;
      i know the theory but need advice from someone who has practical experience with this kind of issues.



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    • Deadpulse

      cool, I'll take a look

      man, some of the pics on HRI makes me so wet

    • chevy Z 302

      to say the least, yes me too.

      some of the rigs and such over there are just beyond amazing, well beyond the general 'gear' in the rig.

    • Deadpulse

      Yeah the ass I bought it off said "just adjust the squelch knob" but that didn't do jack shit.

      I think the unit just sucks. I tried my buddy's older Shure unit that was top of the line at the time, and that one kicks ass. So I am a believer that there are good units out there, but they're not gunna be cheap.

      I really don't wanna be turned off wireless yet cause they're so fucking awesome on stage. I'll never go back

    • chevy Z 302

      SSHS, i picked up a lyric hg the other day:D

      did you buy a x2 yet? How is it if you did?

      also, are you getting the siren II or siren? I was reading over at hri and someone mentioned not liking the sirenII with higher gain applications but i didnt see anything further. Just wondering.

    • wilas101

      I'm hunting for my next guitar.

      I currently own a viper-50 which I have no real complaints about other than the neck is too small for my preference. Besides the viper I have an old guitar that was put together using a warmoth body and neck. I have no idea what model neck or anything... the only thing I know is that its a 45mm width at the nut and I like the way it feels.

      This leads me to the will adler sigs. I see they are made with a 45mm nut width so I was hoping to find someone here who owns one that could answer some questions for me.

      Primarily, how much bigger does it feel than a 43mm neck?

      Is it thin and wide or does it feel like you're fretting on a 2x4?

      I'm sure there will be more questions to follow but we can start there. :)

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    • Sixstringhotshot

      I haven't bought it yet. I didn't even realize the Siren I was still in production. Keep in mind their high gain is "woman tone", and their complaint was that the cable was too bright. Serves them right for using that gay-ass tone....it's all the rage lately, and it's totally dull and attack-less.

    • chevy Z 302

      yea i generally take anything high gain related there with a big ol spoonfull of salt. samhill is the first i've heard/seen to demonstrate high gain with any CAE product. Makes me want to try that out.

      I guess i'll snag a siren II one of these days, after i figure out how much i'll need. If im running a rack i assume i'll need a bit longer than 3ft (which i have a 3ft speakercable now) and if im using head+rack then i can keep a 3fter.

      I figure im getting an x2 rack or floor one of these days and im definitly getting a ea cable for it, i hope they start making them standard production. I bet its a bitch soldering in that tiny connection.

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