FAKE or POOR WORKMANSHIP

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FAKE or POOR WORKMANSHIP

Hi Esp, recently bought my dream AX-50.

Is this a fake or a really poor workmanship? Has Esp finally started to cut corners and making a bad product?

I already have 3 Ltd Esp's at home, B-50 and 2 times F-50. Had M-10 but sold years ago. None of them have/had the backplate sticking out / bulging out / being floppy, and none of them have ferrules missaligned, pushed too deep, holes drilled clumsilly. I buy Esp because the quality is superior, but after this one, I think this is good bye.

As u can see, on the front, the ferrules moved under the string pressure and the wood is showing, on the back the holes aren't even simetrically drilled and one of the ferrules is inserted much deeper than the others.

If this is really Esp product, does this affect the sound quality? If this is real I will seriously consider NOT buying another Ltd Esp. So far I had great quality, impecable finish Esp guitars - untill this one. This is total abomination.

This shouldn't left Esp inspection or production line at all, not for the price and not regarding Esp's legendary quality.

Pushead

The guitar is legit, it's from 2012.

None of the issues you mentioned (a bulging back plate, a string ferule set too deep, or the finish issues on the top) affect the sound. Unfortunately, what you've found are some of the issues associated with the most cost-effective instruments. The issues with the finish on the top are related to the basswood the guitar body is made from. Basswood is reasonably soft, and over the six years of the guitar's existence, the wood has compressed where the strings pull hardest. It's not uncommon to see similar issues on other string-through body designs, even in bodies made from harder woods.

As for passing the quality control department, it would surprise me if the ferule issues were there when the guitar was new. That was likely something that has happened slowly over time.

tomasz m.

This doesnt explain how the missaligned ferrule holes passed inspection.

tomasz m.

I understand wear and tear. However this guitar saw little use over 6 years. There is litteraly no fret wear, the humbuckers aren't scrached, both sides of the body are as pristine as in 2012, there are no buckle rashes on the back.

I can with all responsibility say that this guitar was mostly decorative item during the last 6 years and this light use doesn't justify the damage it sustained.

And there is more bad. Yesterday I noticed that the bridge mounting bolts gave away slightly. This is the first time I notice this on Ltd Esp guitar. I investigated and again the right bolt completely went out - I just pulled it out! There was no glue whatsoever! I inspected the ferrules and the same story - no glue. Nothing was holding the hardware in the position. Also noticed that the machine heads rattle a bit, and because I have a bag of older ones, I tried some in, and they fit suggly. There is some difference in how these are made, I think.

tomasz m.

Pushead

I'd bet dollars to donuts that all the holes, including the ones for the ferrules are cut by a CNC machine. As I mentioned before, the warping of the hole is caused by the strings pulling against the ferrule which deforms the wood. Whether or not the guitar was played, the strings were on the instrument pulling against the ferrules and the bridge.

The bushings for the bridge and the ferrules are not often glued-in to the body. They're just pressed in and friction holds them. Basswood is a soft wood and has a higher probability to show warping of the hole.

Unfortunately, it's an inexpensive guitar that has problems often found in inexpensive guitara.

tomasz m.

The problem is not the price but the fact that ESP changed the way they make the guitars. The M-10 I mentioned I stripped totally for repainting/custom paintwork, including the paint. All basswood was encapsulated in thick layer of resin, strenghtening the wood against scuffs and dings, and also preventing any hardware digging in under pressure. The back ferrules and bridge anchors were fixed so strong that they had to stay in and be taped off for sanding and spraying.

tomasz m.

Now, if you closely look at the pics of the AX=50 (look into the hole) u will notice that the resin is absent in this model. There is just bare wood and thin layer of paint. Nothing reinforces the wood nothing provides anchor point for the fixtures. My idea is that circa 2010 the new "cost effective" measures were introduced and ESP decided to save money on resin, glue, buffing and sanding. As a result the guitar would break after 2-6 years of playing and therefore the customer would be back for another one.

tomasz m.

As I mentioned above I own 2 other Ltd Esp's. Twice as old, much more fret wear, scratches, etc. Much more wear and tear in general. But none of the above problems are present. All fixtures are solid, nothing moved, all drilled symetrically, the backplates are nearly air tight. And I am sure if I strip the paint off, the resin will be present. The price was as "inexpensieve" as the Ax-50, because they have the same LH-150 humbuckers, just the shape is different. However both are pre-2010, have clear finished necks (not body colour) and come from different than chinese factory.

tomasz m.

The lesson for me is:

1. Avoid new Ltd Esp made circa after 2010,

2. Avoid Ltd Esp from China warehouse, stick to Indonesia and Korea,

3. Avoid Ltd Esp guitars with the body coloured necks, because it is mark of the cheaper, poorer quality version, with the RoHS logo.

4. Consider other similarly "inexpensive" brands - maybe they will hold together better.

Simply because LTD ESP's have became "inexpensieve" and "cost effective", and therefore they fall apart for no obvious reasons, making them unsuitable for re-sell or for my son to play in the future. And I am not willing to take any more risks and try any other of your models. Would hate to be dissapointed again.

 

tomasz m.

Now, dont get me wrong: I will fix this guitar. I will spend the Xmass week playing the ESP Custom Shop, gluing the living hell out of the holes, applying resin where needed into the warped holes, repositioning and fixing all the stuff you failed to.

This upsets me so much that I may even make Youtube video on this, so others be warned how you spoiled the legend.

But this is the first and the last of your guitars I am fixing. And bad, because this is my dream guitar and was supposed to be my best Xmass present ever.

Thank you Esp. I have spoken.

Pushead

FWIW, your F-50s are made from agathis, not basswood. But in those years, so was the AX-50.

Might I suggest using maple dowels instead of epoxy or some sort of resin. If you're looking at strengthening the body wood, coat it in CA glue (essentially super glue) and let it soak-in before sanding it back down. It's a trick used by woodworkers to help stabilize fragile woods, but it should help strengthen the basswood as well.

tomasz m.

Agathis - doesnt have the best reviews :-) lol

As for the woodwork, 90% is sorted now. Instead of talking about it on Youtube I sat down yesterday and today and its mostly done.

Talking about the repair- I probably have majority of the "woodworkers tricks" in my little finger, as I am serious DIY freak. I diy everything, my home, workshop, car, motorcycle, garden, paintball snipper rifle, swords, daggers, guitars, etc. Have worked with different soft and hardwoods over the years and such guitar repairs are triffles to me.

 

tomasz m.

The guitar itself wasn't gone that far that I had to fit dowels and drill new holes.

Like you said, few drops of super glue into each hole, left overnight for drying, did the job. Today I smeared gorilla epoxy into each hole and hammered all fixtures into places.

And yes, I had to hammer, because after the super glue the holes were extremely thight. The epoxy will fill the holes and set the fixtures. This stuff is going nowhere now :-) U definitely wont be able to pull it out with your nails only as I did :-)

And most importantly no wood is showing, all is covered by the ferrules, and the back ones are on the same height versus the wood so it looks neat.

tomasz m.

Did some job on the rattly machine heads as well. Dont want to tape around the shafts, so smeared thin layer of epoxy in each hole, to slightly close the bore. I hope the fitting will be snug now. If not will tape the shafts or again smear with epoxy.

I am really tempted to do some modifications/ alterations/ personalisation, but after what I think about, the guitar will never be the same :-) lol

Anyway will post some pics when finished.

tomasz m.

Just a bit of update on the AX-50 resto. The machine heads are fitted now, and the epoxy worked a treat. Some bores were so thight that had to file them slightly, with the arts and crafts little round files, just to push the collars in. Again, really sturdy, tuff finish now. Won't move or rattle.

tomasz m.

Then I proceded to humbucker exchange. I had a spare EMG H4 set laying around, so decided to fit them, just to check if they work at all. And there I discovered even more flaws. Left screw holes holding the neck humbucker bezel / frame were drilled totally out of line, were drilled inwards, and the screws were holding just by a thread of wood.

tomasz m.

After using some of mine "woodworking tricks" the damaged holes were sealed, new holes routed in, EMG's soldered and secured. The guitar equipped with D'Addario EXL140 10|52 strings (and I am sure she can hold under heavier gauge pressure now), bridge/play height adjusted, tuned to drop D, with 12-fret harmonics set. All tested and plays beautifully. Merry Xmas to me :-) Haven't done any personalisation yet, as I feel it will be damaging the guitar really.

Nathan S.

All I can say is wow....

 

 

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