A few question about eclipses

barryswansonbarryswanson
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    A few question about eclipses

    I have a ACSB ESP Eclipse I bought a few years ago and now I have the dreaded bow in my bridge. What gotoh part no. Is the correct replacement I need to order?

    What does ESP recommend for conditioning fretboard wood.

    I have a 2010 Will Adler sig that has yellowed over time. I personally think it looks shit and was wondering if I was able to buff the poly to make look less shit? By using something similar you see the Guitar manufactures using in videos. The big wheel buffing things.

    Also what is the go with black hardware in Australia? It always seems to be like an anodised black instead of proper black that other countries get.

    Thanks for your time.

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    barryswanson
    barryswanson wrote

    Anyone here?

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      Johny2Wong
      Johny2Wong wrote

      I don't know Gotoh model for ESP standards eclipse I. But, I can give you suggestion.

      Go to ESP japan website select E-II section. Find E-II eclipse II model and check the spec. You can find the gotoh part number on it. Hopefully it will fit your guitar.

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        barryswanson
        barryswanson wrote

        Thanks for the relply! I did what you said and now I have something to work with. I’ll just check the dimensions before I order. Thanks again.

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          ESP Admin
          ESP Admin wrote
          barryswanson wrote:

          I have a ACSB ESP Eclipse I bought a few years ago and now I have the dreaded bow in my bridge. What gotoh part no. Is the correct replacement I need to order?

          What does ESP recommend for conditioning fretboard wood.

          I have a 2010 Will Adler sig that has yellowed over time. I personally think it looks shit and was wondering if I was able to buff the poly to make look less shit? By using something similar you see the Guitar manufactures using in videos. The big wheel buffing things.

          Also what is the go with black hardware in Australia? It always seems to be like an anodised black instead of proper black that other countries get.

          Thanks for your time.

          The Gotoh TOM bridge is model GE103B-T, alternatively you could use a Tonepros T3BT TOM bridge. For conditioning fretboard wood such as rosewood or ebony (not maple), you can use a standard lemon oil. Just put some on a cloth or paper towel, wipe into fingerboard lightly and then wipe off. Don’t soak the wood in this oil, just apply a little bit. The yellowing in the paint is natural over time. There is no way to buff out the yellow color. This is a natural occurrence in polyurethane paint. Regarding the black hardware in Australia, this is the first we have heard of this. We always use standard black hardare, but some models may use black satin hardware which can appear to be “dull” in the luster since it is matte or flat black.
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            barryswanson
            barryswanson wrote

            Thank you so much for that information. Regarding black hardware I was told once it had something to do with it containing some chemical that was banned in Australia. But it was probably just bull shit. Thanks again for your time

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