I've checked the other threads discussing about the FR-1000 series.
Most of time what was discussed over there was the nature of those bridges. The only subject regarding its durability was about the finish.
Now that some of you guys have played with those bridges for a while, I'd like to hear some feedback about how they compare to the 'Made in Germany' ones.
The main question is: does it worth to switch to a MIG OFR? The FR-1000 from my Edwards E-KL has already faded - what happened to somebody else over here too. On the other hand, the black nickel OFR in my Horizon is still like new - despite the fact that this is my main guitar!
The other difference is that the tremolo arm can't be fastened tight as in the MIG Floyd. Other than that, it stays in tune very well.
Both were made in 2008, and I brought them home in the beginning of 2010.
Besides the finish fade the only thing I've heard about them was that some couldn't get the intonation set on the high E because the saddle wouldn't slide back far enough. I think there really isn't a replacement for a real Floyd if your gonna whammy alot, we all know the real floyd is gig and tour approved
I can't even complain about the Specials either. I've used them on a couple project axes and have had zero problems... the only thing I've done is replace the zinc sustain block with a real Floyd steel or brass block...
I love the sinclair bridge and thats not a "floyd". There are really bad licensed ones out there like the ones dean uses on dimebag guitars and the trem on my m-ii works perfect and that just says made in germany by schaller and ESP on it. It looks exactly like a ofr and its even built by the same people but it doesn't say it. If it works and the finish wear doesn't affect you then use it. If it gives you a problem swap it
ive got a fr 1000 on my m 103 and ive got it perfectly intonated in e standard and havent had any issues with finish fading and i bought it used 3 years ago
its a better working trem than the old OFR ond my buddies 82 sambora kramer but that may just be age
If the FR-1000 is the same bridge Charvel put on the USA Promods, then I'll say this:
I've had my KFR-equipped Charvel since July 2008. The bridge stays in tune amazingly. Divebombs return back to perfect tune. No stripped threads or worn out knife-edges. I am considering getting a brass block, however, just to see if it has a large effect on tone.
I wouldn't even think about switching to a German OFR unless the current bridge somehow became unusable.
i have an OFR on my jh-600 and it was beat to hell and back by the previous owner , but it still works near perfectly 8.5/10
The current jap charvels and previous usa bult charvels had the korean FRT bridge, It's also now used on tha majority of sub $1000 guitars many of the BCR's LTD's etc...
I have heard that the arm holder isnt as tight as the german floyd, which would affect the abillity to flutter oan recessed bridge...
And dont the 100 up to the 1000/600 series have floyd rose specials not the FRT-1000?
You may like the bigger brass block you may not I found that my guitars had a lot more sustain and a smoother and warmer tone after getting abigger brass block its at least double the thickness of the german blocks...
I think the saddles would be my biggest issue with these bridges and I would probably drop an Gofr or Gotoh FR instead...
But as long as they keep tune well have good wear on the knife edges then theres no reason with good maintenance that they wont last a few years...
hmm, when was the first time the LTD's came with those 1000 series floyd bridges? I've had my OFR on my M-II UC for 2.5 years and it's already faded....
I have a LTD MH-350FR and a LTD MH-1001FR.
Both have a black nickel finish. Believe it or not, the black nickel finish on the Floyd Rose Special is more durable than the same finish on the Floyd Rose 1000. The MH-350FR (FR Special) was my main axe for 3 years. After a year of use, the finish of the Floyd Rose 1000 is fading. I wipe my instruments after every play.
Anyone else noticed this? There is a metal plating company willing to replate my FR-1000 for $60 with an auto finish at the end.
I also use gunmetal oil to prevent corrosion.