a few floyd questions

Updated
Metahead
when you change strings on them, do you prop up the bridge with a piece of something to keep it from going down, or do you do them one at a time. would it mess the spring tension up if it changed from 11's to 9's?
Metahead

how much is it to take it into a shop?

DeathrollJM

^don't do that, change your own strings, its a good skill to have. I loosen up all the strings first where they don't hold any tension, then i pop off the springs, remove the locking rods to release the strings and clean the guitar as needed. Then before i put the bridge back in i put all the new stings on and lock them into the bridge, then i place the bridge back into the guitar and put the springs back on (don't loosen the spring claw, you will have to take a flat head screw driver and use that as a tool to pull the strings back onto the bridge and then use the but of the screw driver to tap them all the way down. Then you tighten the strings and tune. I do this method because i fear that blocking the bridge will bend the rods, and usually after every change i like the remove the bridge and clean it with a toothbrush and water so that way you have a good clean surface for all the mechanics inside the bridge, this ensures good intonation and for the guitar to stay in tune better, locking tremolos can still go out of tune if the saddles and lockers are filled with dirt and dust.

Fikealox

My computer isn't liking the video, but if he's got the ball ends up near the tuners, he's probably just done it that way to avoid having to cut off the balls. There's no real advantage to it other than saving a minute or two... The disadvantage is that you might have to have more turns on the tuners than you otherwise would.

DeathrollJM

My computer isn't liking the video, but if he's got the ball ends up near the tuners, he's probably just done it that way to avoid having to cut off the balls. There's no real advantage to it other than saving a minute or two... The disadvantage is that you might have to have more turns on the tuners than you otherwise would.

in the video he cuts all the strings about 2 inches after the end of the bridge to prevent it from having to much string slack.

sirsloop

IDK... if you are gonna go from 11's to 9's I would just take the entire thing apart. Take all the strings off, remove the FR (TIGHTEN YOUR LOCKING BOLTS FIRST OR YOU'LL LOSE YOUR BLOCKS!), clean the entire area, remove a spring and/or loosen the dogbone, attach the FR again, start the long process of setting the thing up and retuning. Yeah, I personally don't block the bridge... I just start with the strings in the bridge and pull them up. Just switch sides as you go... do the lowest string, highest, 2nd lowest, 3nd highest, etc etc. I would start with the micro tuners set pretty high as you'll most likely be tightening as the strings stretch...even if you pre-stretched them before playing.

IDK... everyone has their own way of doing it... some more "right" than others I suppose?

Metahead

DeathrollJM, i do intend on learning to string my own guitar, but i thought i would take it in the first time because im changing gauges. sensable? and how much would it cost me?

sirsloop

$55 w/ a FR is probably not out of this world... For that price they should be polishing your frets, restringing, setting the action up/truss rod adjustment, tuning, checking the electronics... basically going through the entire guitar. Next time if you just want to change strings from 9's to new 9's it will be much easier. Just do one at a time and you'll be set. Doing this all is not out of most people's skill level, but if you have never done it, it takes time to figure the action out and get it low without buzz. There's a lot more "feel" that goes into setting one up vs a had tail. For example, if the bridge is too high an experienced person would know how many turns to put on the screws on the back, or if a spring addition is necessary.

You could always try it yourself, and if you fail take it to a shop ;)

ampartic

You might need to adjust your truss rod. More tension to less will probably cause a bit of overbow in your neck making open strings buzz as well as buzz in the mid area frets on your neck. To answer your question no you don't need anything to stop the bridge when you're only changing one string at a time.

Changing gauges on a FR is a major pain since you basically have to resetup your guitar and intonation is hit and miss and takes longer to get right as opposed to a fixed bridge. Find a set of strings you like and stick with them.

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