Grover tuners on MH1000

Updated
Ryan M.

Hi everyone,

I have a LTD MH1000 which I bought form Guitar Center and it has grover tuners with the floyd rose.

I am thinking about blocking the floyd rose so I can unlock the nut and change tunings as if it were a hard tail guitar.

Do I need to change the grover tuners to locking tuners? Or will I have no issue keeping my strings in tune with the tuners already on?

 

EDIT: I would like to keep the locking nut OFF

Pushead

It'll be fine with the Grovers.

Ryan M.

Okay, thank you Pushead.

Ishtiaq S.

Grovers are amazing tuners in their own. Keep em.

Ryan M.

Okay so I blocked my trem with some taped up nickels. The tuning is not stable, it stays in tune for about 5 minutes then needs to be re adjusted. Why am I experiencing this?

Pushead

Taped up nickels isn't exactly the best way to do it.  Have you pulled the springs tight against the nickels? 

Are they staying in place or is the trem still moving?

Have you properly stretched the strings?

When you're tuning do you tune to pitch from below (drop below the pitch and come back up to it?)

Ryan M.

I appreciate the replies, and love the needed help. I know its not the best way to do it but I read that it DOES work, and it's just a temporary fix unless this doesn't end up working.

I havn't pulled the strings tight against the nickes as I don't know what you mean by that, but no, the trem is not moving at all. The nickels are in there tight.

These strings are months old (I took a break, but theyre still old and used), and I beleive they are streched.

I have not tried tuning like that, I accidently go past the pitch whendtuning down sometimes, but even after I tuned to C# for some Amorphis songs and came back to Standard, the guitar comes out of tune after just a tiny bit of playing. 

Pushead

The better way to tune to a pitch (any pitch) is to tune up to the note.  No matter how good your tuners are, there is some slop in the gears.  By tuning from below the tension of the strings keeps gears locked together better.  (if that makes any sense).  So for example, if you're in D and you want to tune to C#, drop the pitch of the string below C# and then tune the guitar up to the C# note.

Where did you put the nickels in the trem cavity?  Between the spring claw and the trem, or between the trem and the back of the guitar?  Most of the time when I see it done, it's between the claw and the trem.  When doing that, you should tighten the spring tension (by screwing the trem claw in) to keep the trem tight against the block/nickels.

An even better way to do it would be to put a shim (or nickels) on both sides of the trem.

Possibly a better (but less reversable) way to do it is what a previous owner of one of my guitars did:

 

I'd also try re-stringing the guitar.  It's an easy thing to do when you're esperiencing tuning issues.  Not necessarily going to fix the issue, but it's an easy first step.

Ryan M.

Once again, thank you. I will always tune that way now. I put the nickels on both sides of the trem, blocking ALL movement. I wanted to see if it worked before I screwed anything in like that owner did. These strings are in fairly good condition and I'd rather not re string right now to save some money. 

Pushead

Well give the tuning technique a try and see how it goes.  Let us know what you find out.

Ryan M.

I tried that and although it seems to help it hasn't fixed the issue. I may just have to lock/ unlock each time I change tunings although my ultimate goal was to be able to have it unlocked at the nut.

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